Inca Trail, Machu Picchu and a proposal
27.03.2008 - 27.04.2008
25 °C
I got a heart that just won't stop beating for you
I got a love I just can't stop feeling for you
Aren´t You Glad by The Beach Boys
Well.................
So much has happened since I last wrote. We are in the beautiful city of Cusco and have enjoyed an amazing 4 days hiking along the Inca Trail to the lost city of Machu Picchu. Yesterday I asked Lynn to marry me and she said yes. We are both incredibly happy and looking forward to sharing the news and plans with family and friends in person when we return to Scotland in June.
We have seen many beautiful sights and experienced some amazing things and places on our travels, but I think the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu might just be the best thing ever. It is a truly magical, mystical and memorable place, the scenery is stunning and the fact that it is so remote and up a mountain is just mindblowing. How and why the Incas built Machu Picchu and the other citadels on the way will never be known. The only thing I have seen to compare to it is the Great Wall Of China. The craftmanship, attention to detail and locations are just crazy. It really is quite insane to think of the Incas building cities on mountains centuries ago.
So this is what happened.........
Thursday March 27th
We did the city tour of Cusco and the surrounding Inca Ruins. At night we went to a pizza place near our hostel where the profits go to help kids in Cusco followed by a couple of beers at a great bar in the San Blas area of Cusco called Hierabuena.
Friday March 28th
We were woken at 5.30am, put our big bags in storage and jumped in our mini bus to the start of the Inca Trail. We met our guide Zac and fellow hiker Chris, from London. We drove 40 minutes out of Cusco to the town of Ollantaytambo and had a lovely breakfast in a great cafe called Hearts, run by a retired English woman. The cafes profits go towards the children of the valley and education and it is run in conjunction with the company we booked our trek through, www.ecotrekperu.com www.heartscafe.org
We started the Inca Trail 82km from Cusco, taking soem photos to mark the occasion. I will upload loads tomorrow when I find a decent internet cafe.
We walked to the Llaqtapata ruins and then on to our lunch spot at Tarayocquiy. The sun was shining and spirits were high. We sang songs, recited the script of Star Wars and marched on, keeping up a good pace that pleased our excellent guide Zac.
The afternoon was uphll all the way and the pace slowed and we were glad to arrive at our campsite at Aya Pata at 5pm. I had been a long and thoroughly enjoyable day. The site was 3300 metres above sea level. We celebrated our arrival with a Cusquena beer, looking out at some amazing scenery across the valley. Snow capped mountains, clouds nestling in the hills and paths leading onwards and upwards to Dead Womens Pass, where we would be hiking tomorrow.
Saturday March 29th
Everyone that we had met in South America that had already hiked the Inca Trail said that the second day was the toughest, they were not wrong. We were woken at 5am by two porters coming to our tent with some Coco tea and we had a nice breakfast of porridge and french toast. The team supporting us on our hike were fantastic. 10 in all - the chef Felix, the head porter, the rocket man (toilet man), and the support crew that carried tents, food and equipment, as well as our excellent guide Zac.
We left the campsite at 6.30am and walked through the twisted forest, winding upwards towards another campsite where we rested for 15 minutes, chatting to a group of Aussies before heading on. We climbed steeply out of the campsite to ´Dead Womans Pass´. The pass is a set of stairs that seems to go on forever. The stairs lead to the highest point on the Inca Trail, 4200 metres above sea level. The altitude along with the steepness insured that we were a little short of breath and we were elated when we reached the top. The view over the other side was cloudy, as we were hiking down to the cloud forest section. Still, when the clouds broke we were awarded with some memorable views and we stayed at the top for a while, taking it all in. You have to do that sometimes, the scenery is just too spectacular for words.
As we climbed down through the clouds it started to rain and by the time we reached camp it was raining heavily. We stocked up on soup and pasta and by the time we finished the rain was off and the sun started to break through the clouds. We climbed back out of the valley we had just climbed into, up our second pass of the day. We stopped at Runkauraqay Inca ruins, 3800 metres above sea level and headed on up to the top and then down the other side.
After a while we reached Sayamarca ruins (inaccessible point in English). The ruins were aptly named and the most impressive we had visited yet, set high on a hill overlooking scenery that appeared to be computer generated. We climbed up the steepest set of steps yet to reach the ruins and wandered around them for a good 30 minutes before heading on down to our camp for the night. The sun was shining and the views from the campsite across the valley at Quonchamarca were among the best. The clouds were pure white and it was hard to tell where they ended and the snow capped mountains in the distance began. We had dinner and admired the millions of stars shining brightly in the clear night sky as we wandered to our tents for a well earned rest.
Sunday March 30th
A day Lynn and I will remember for a long time, we saw Machu Picchu for the first time. At dinner the night before Zac had given us two options for the days hike. Option A - As we were hiking at a good pace we could make it to Machu Picchu in the afternoon, a day ahead of schedule. This would mean we could spend time there when it was quietest and then stay at a cool campsite down the hill from it, next to a river. Then get up and have a full day at Machu Picchu the next day as well. Option B - Do the usual hike to the busiest campsite on route and arrive at Machu Picchu the following morning with hundreds of other hikers.
We opted for Option A and it was one of the best decisions we ever made, giving ourselves extra time at the truly amazing Machu Picchu. We were awoken at 5.30am by Coco tea and had a breakfast of pancakes and honey before leaving camp at 6.30am. We climbed up Puyupatamarca hill to watch the sunrise over the valley, casting new shadows on the mountains in the distance. We saw Machu Picchu hill and knew we were getting close to the famous ruins. We carried on downhill to Winawayna ruins, a very impressive set of ruins, where we had lunch and then pressed on towards the Sun Gate, 6km away. This is the spot we should have stopped at for the night.
The path was narrow and the steps were steep but we reached the Sun Gate (Intipunku) in an hour and saw Machu Picchu down the hill. The site is set high up a mountain, surrounded by other hills, valleys and utterly breathtaking scenery. Craig had brought binoculars and we took turns at looking through them, making us all the more eager to get closer for a better view with our own eyes.
We wound down the hill to the terracing and marvelled at the ruins of what must have been the most spectacular city on earth at it´s time. The Spanish raided Peru, but they never found Machu Picchu or the other cities on the Inca Trail.
We also caught our first glimpse of Wayna Picchu, ruins perched high on an incredibly steep mountain next to Machu Picchu and vowed to climb up to them tomorrow. We went a little snap happy with ur camera and the results are ther on www.flickr.com/photos/murrayandlynn but the truth is that photos can´t do this place justice. Still we have taken some good ones so check them out!
After sitting on the terracing and taking it all in we walked 15 minutes round the back to see an old Inca bridge. Again, you just had to wonder how they did it. After that we had a quick walk around the site and then down the hill to our camp for the night, tired and elated. We reached camp at 5pm and were awarded with a nice cold Cusquena beer and a basin of hot water for our aching feet.
It was our last night with our porters, so we bought all of them a beer and the four of us made sure they were well tipped for their hard work and care. After dinner we walked in the dark to the nearest town for a beer in a pub where Zac knew the owner and retired to bed around 11pm.
Monday 31st March
Our alarm call was at 6.30am but we were already awake as it was pouring with rain, thankfully it would clear in a couple of hours but at the time we were very glad we had got to see Machu Picchu in the sunshine the day before. We said goodbye to the porters and caught the bus up the winding road that measures 8km to Machu Picchu. We arrived just after 8am and the sun was starting to shine through the clouds and the rain stopped. Zac gave us a tour round the site. He was very informative, but funny, not boring and an all round great guy. We were very lucky to have him as our guide. He told us about the agricultural sections, the temples, the baths, the fountains, the temple of the condor and the ceremonial rock, before leading us to the gate to Wayna Picchu and asking us if we were sure we wanted to climb it. Check our flickr site to see how steep it is!
Of course we did! We waved Zac goodbye as he was getting the 2.30pm train to Cusco and then we set off. The sun was now out in force and the steps were the steepest yet, with ropes to help you up some sections and ensure your safety. It took us an hour to reach the top and we were awarded with absolutely jaw dropping views across Machu Picchu and the surrounding mountains and valleys.
After 30 minutes taking in the view, Reddy and Chris decided to walk down the other way to the Great Cave, while Lynn and I tackled the steep descent back to Machu Picchu.
THE PROPOSAL
We lay on a terrace, sunning ourselves and recovering from the climb up and down Wayna Pichu, before climbing back up to the top of the terraces for one last look over Machu Picchu.
Lynn and I have been going out for almost 7 years and we have discussed marriage on many occassions. In the last month or so I have given it a lot of serious thought and I had decided I would ask Lynn to marry me at the end of our trip in Buenos Aires. However, the day before I realised that Machu Picchu is an incredibly special place and a proposal there would be more memorable than in a bar, restaurant or football stadium in Buenos Aires.
I had a speech in mind, but how do you start such a thing? I thought about it 3 times, stopping Lynn each time to cuddle her but not quite having the courage or knowledge of how to ask. Then as we started walking back down I stopped her, hugged her, looked into her eyes and simply asked ´Lynn, will you marry me?´ My speech went out the window, but thankfully Lynn said yes and we hugged and told each other how much we were in love and we wouldn´t know what to do without each other. I couldn´t believe how happy I felt and I wondered why I hadn´t asked before. I guess I wasn´t quite ready!
We went to the entrance and broke the news to Chris and Reddy. Then headed into town for the train to Cusco. We played cards and drank beer on the train and chatted to a nice couple from New Zealand who were on honeymoon. We grabbed a quick bite to eat, checked back into our hostel and enjoyed a good nights sleep.
Tuesday April 1st
We don´t normally go to English or British pubs, but we went to The Real McCoy for a slap up breakfast after a nice long lie. In the afternoon Craig and I went to an Irish bar to watch United win 2-0 away to Roma in the first leg of the CL quarter final. United looked fantastic, with Ronaldo and Rooney scoring. When it comes to Ronaldo, I don´t think I have seen a player in such a rich vein of form since Cantona took United to the double in 96. His header was fantastic and if he stays fit he might just win United the European Cup this year. We wil see!
We were shattered at night and had an early one after I started on this blog, finally finishing it this morning. I hope you enjoy it and I will write again soon.
Lots of love
Murray and Lynn
xxx
Posted by murray2701 01.04.2008 1:17 PM Archived in Round the World | Peru Comments (2)

